OK too much brain work again, my head hurts, time for some relaxation!.

If I was ONLY planning on building a "robot" that carries my video camera (and sends the signal back to me remotely) then an "over the counter" robot speed controller could be used.  This would interface directly with RC systems for RC planes etc. So it would make life easier to connect up!

But I wanted to use the Penny and Giles powerchair controller (Pilot Plus 80/100 amp in this case) for many reasons.

1. Its a very "safe" controller, that does many failsafe and fault checking operations, so hopefully no uncontrollable and dangerous runaway situations if it fails somehow.

This thing will drive around in public places with a camera at times! So we don't want any accidents, or fires!
 

2. The Penny & Giles controller (NOT the joystick pod!) is a very reliable and bomb proof bit of kit with extensive programming options, that includes turn acceleration, motor compensation, fault codes, temp fold back, current fold back, current limiting etc etc. Too much to try and list. All this is VERY useful.

3. I eventually want to add a pair of model aircraft gyros, one on yaw, and for fun one on pitch! That's right I want to make it balance on two wheels!

Now this is the MAIN reason to use the P & G Controller. The same one is fitted to my wheelchair! (And lots of other peoples too!) Even before we start testing the Gyros, it allows, it allows me to easily just plug my home made "module" into my powerchair and then I can safely drive it around by using my Radio Control!  

This looks very strange - take my word for it!  I can drive it into my shower room out of the way when I go to bed at night for e.g., from my bed.  Or I could drive it about with me in it!   Useful to get in and out of my van too, because the normal control pod is on the arm that I have to remove to transfer to the drivers seat. Now I don't need it!  WITH the gyro, and another small sensor or two I will be able to balance in a continual "wheelie" and drive about on two wheels. While I perfect this the Robot camera will be used instead!  It will hurt less when I get it wrong...

4. Oh - and I had one...
 

This picture shows a thing called an "Omni Plus" (The black/blue striped thing on the left!) This is made by Penny & Giles, so as to allow external "things/joysticks etc to be connected to the Pilot Plus 100 amp controller. It has an analogue voltage input for an external control stick. So to go from your Common Radio Control receiver into this input is at first a little difficult! Servos/Joysticks, or Servos and "pots" would work but its crude and not elegant, and it would not fail "safely" in the event of a bad servo etc. We don't want this thing running wild!
 

So... Now we go from a "failsafe" PCM (Pulse Code Modulated) RC Receiver,  to a pair of cheap non reversible (forwards only) aircraft "speed controllers". They were only designed to control 2 amps, but this is irrelevant since we only need a voltage "signal" to simulate an analogue joystick. These speed controllers also have a 5v feed built in to run the Receiver, and they in turn get their supply from the "Omni Plus! All very neat and tidy. The actual signal needed to be 1.2v plus/minus on both channels, but that was in the end easy to sort out with a few passive components on a board that sits inside the "black box" also pictured. This box has the PCM Receiver, 2 speed controllers and my home built circuit board inside.. And soon 2 solid state Futaba "heading lock" solid state gyros as well. Then the fun will start...

These "boxes" now all live inside the robot/powerchair. But they fitted with velcro for easy removal,
 

This is my trusty computerised Futaba Radio Control transmitter used to control the robot.

I used to fly "fast" Jet powered planes, and helicopters for years!

It currently only goes for about 6 hours using Ni metal hydride batteries, but it will soon run from my power chairs batteries, and have an external signal booster (like a CB "burner") so it will have BIG range!

Currently it has 1 watt output. Soon to be 30, or 50 watts

The robot will have a video camera on board, so I can also fit a small transmitter to the robot, sending my picture/sound back to a small portable colour TV fixed to the same tray my transmitter sits on. Then I will be able to stay home but drive the robot all over the area. and see where I am going by watching the screen...

Should be fun.

Now it has, a front! And a back! And a (home made) antenna, and all the electronics are hidden on the inside under the 8mm aluminium plate that has the Voltmeter, and Ammeter sat on it....

A rear view, showing it on charge, and my new Ariel... Believe it or not this is part of my bedroom! Girlfriend who lives with me just loves it...